Amatou


Climbing in Amatou bay takes place in a small canyon leading to the sea. We call the canyon Amatou according to the name of the bay. This small canyon is in fact continuation of the Xerokambos Gorge,  which is the largest canyon in Xerokambos area, leading from Hametoulo village. Climbing routes are done on two opposite crags, "Cave" on the north-east side and "Lungs" on south-west side. Because of this there is almost always some part of the crag in shade or in sun ( in wintertime).  The sea is about 100 meters far from here, it is very pleasing  to combine climbing with swimming in the sea during a warm day. The quality of rock here is very good, the material is not sharp in most pitches. The routes are mostly overhanging. Here is  a video that we shot  in August 2019. https://youtu.be/-QhhRU1KBLc

 

 

Picture: South-west face of Amatou, climbing takes place around two caves that look like lungs. 

 

1. Plotnou, 6c, 18m, Karel Hronek, Petr Fiala, 2016

Difficult start through a little overhang, then continually interesting, delicate climbing on small crimps.

2. Along the edge, 6c+, 18m, Karel Hronek, Petr Fiala, 2016

Delicate continuous climbing with small difficulties at the beginning, then technical climbing with small crimps and edges. 

3. Ultimate edge, 7a, 17m, Karel Hronek, Petr Fiala, 2016

Climbing on narrow overhanging edge, very continuous with some far reaches. Technically difficult using good footwork technique ( like heel hooks).

4. Into dust, 6a, 15m, Petr Fiala, Karel Hronek, 2016

Nice climbing in a slightly overhanging wall with big good holds and difficulties at the end. The route ends in a very small cave. 

5. Vibrato, 6b, 14m, Petr Fiala, Karel Hronek, 2016

Very nice climbing on an overhanging pillar with good holds.

6. In cave, 6c, 14m, Petr Fiala, Karel Hronek, 2016

The route starts easily on big holds and goes through the roof of the cave. The crux is under the roof with some bouldery moves. 

7. Cesta Karla Hronka, 7b+, 14m, Karel Hronek, 2016

Overhanging pillar with smaller holds and some far reaches and bouldery moves.

 

 

Picture: 

 

1. Post bellum, 6a, 13m, Karel Hronek, Petr Fiala, 2016

Very easy climbing along the small ridge, with some harder moves in the end.

2. Open project, 8a, 11m, Karel Hronek, 2016

This project has not been climbed yet. The route leads through the roof of the cave, the project is opened to everybody.  It is bolted. 

3. Do diury, 6c+, 10m, Petr Fiala, Karel Hronek, 2016

Short, but intense route on smaller holds, edges, and pockets. Slightly overhanging.  

4. Středem vpravo, 9m, Karel Hronek, Petr Fiala, 2016

Short route on smaller holds.

5. Středem vlevo, 6b+, 9m, Petr Fiala, Karel Hronek, 2016

Nice sequence of moves on smooth holds.

6. Pod převis, 6a+, 12m, Petr Fiala, Karel Hronek, 2016

Short route on good, smooth holds. You go through the small roof to the left and then easily to the anchor.

7. Hrana, 6a, 13m, Karel Hronek, Petr Fiala, 2016

Warm-up route on good holds, partly on slightly sharp, grey limestone.

 

Access: The access is very easy. Both crags are close to the dirt road leading between Amatou bay and Xerokambos village.

 

 

Picture: How to get to the "Cave", north-east face. This access is not for kids or inexperienced people. 

 

Picture: west side of the Amatou canyon. The  access is easy, however, it is impossible to get there with a baby carriage.  

 

Photos: 

Amatou Lungs, Vibrato 6b

 

 

Picture: Amatou, Lungs, Vibrato, 6b

 

 

Picture: 

 

Picture: Amatou, Lungs, Ultimate edge, 7a

 

Picture: Ultimate edge, 7a, climber: Petr Fiala

 

Picture: You can see the whole Amatou bay from the "Lungs" sector. It takes you 5 minutes to get to the sea for some refreshment in  a hot day.

 

 

Lezení v zátoce Amatou se odehrává v malém kaňonu otevírajícím se směrem k moři, který jsem nazval Amatou podle zátoky. Tento malý kaňon je v podstatě pokračováním velkého kaňonu Xerokambosu, vedoucího směrem od vesničky Hametoulo směrem dolů. Cesty jsou vytvořeny  na dvou protilehlých skalách , jedna z nich je pracovně nazvaná plíce ( protože tak vypadá) a je obrácená k západu, dopoledne je tedy ve stínu. Druhá, protilehlá, je obrácená k východu. Ve stínu je odpoledne. K moři je to zhruba 100 metrů, tedy je to ideální pro krátký lezecký výlet během koupacího dne. Lezení je po velmi příjemném materiálu. Cesty jsou většinou převislé.

Přístup: Přístup je velmi jednoduchý, Amatou je součástí vesnice Xerokambos, do zátoky tedy vede kamenitá cesta, dojedete tam autem.

Amatou – plíce, západní stěna- pod tuto stěnu lze dojít i s menšími dětmi, ovšem protor pod stěnou není příliš vhodný na nějaké velké pobíhání. Je zde spousta kamenů a keřů s ostrými větvemi a trny. 

Amatou – východní stěna – k cestám je třeba vylézt lehkým terénem do jeskyňky, cesta pro děti to ale není. Lezení je většinou lehčího rázu do obtížnosti 6c+.

terraminoika zeus appartman katerina appartman